Chicago Fashion Show FW2016: Hub of the Sartorial Melting Pot Style

New York, LA, London, Paris, Moscow–these places command an unique style that is reflective of the people and cultures that habitat the urban, rustic and pastoral spaces. However, Chicago is different. It is the fulcrum of multitudes of diverse styles, fashions and ideas intermingling to produce something new. It’s unique but represented of the designer’s and artisan’s personality, socio-cultural background, and experiences.

Chicago has never been a major pioneer or birth place to popular fashion trends, style statements, or renounce designers. But in the years to come, it will surely continue to be a melting pot of talent–Where people from different generations share a common interest in the diversity of style.

About 2 weeks ago, FashionBar hosted a Fall/Winter 2016 Collection at The Drake Hotel, showcasing looks from 5 starkly distinctive designers.

 

 

Christopher DiGiorgio: Futuristic American Street Style

Easy to wear sprinkled with this grunge afterthought. As DiGiorgio states in his own words, “Fashion is life to me. Fashion is the expression of the archetypal symbols of existence. My designs help free me from space and time.” This Omaha talent takes over the “street style” genre with a revolutionary vision.

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Humane Envy: Feminine American Style with a Purpose

Humane Envy emphasizes clothing for women that come from all walks of life. Femininity must be embraced in all shapes and sizes. Fashion is about feeling beautiful in your own skin and radiating confidence into the world.

Furthermore, Envy believes that style must surpass the materialistic and physical and reflect morals, well-being of others, and compassion.

Her clothing speaks to that all-American working girl in a bold, colorful silhouette.

Laura Daili Vilnius: Pure Lithuanian Functionality with Flare of Minimalistic

Vilnius is an international fashion designer with an edgy aura. For her, a modern woman must be original and keep it simple. Less is always more. Stick to basics. Be Minimal in approach but embrace quality. Her statement: “Fashion is delicate like glass and infinite like time.”LAURA-DAILI-VILNIUS-foto-Neringa-Rekasiute-model-Karolina-Krilaviciute-1

Kristina Giedra: Classic and Modern High Quality Lithuanian Creativity

Giedra’s creations have the same expressive resemblance to Tony Ward’s collections. Ward’s idea: “A tribute to women and their femininity, with the taste and distinctive charm of a timeless style.”  Giedra has a similar mantra, where design and innovation must bring glamour, excitement, and class to a woman’s charm.

Nadia Dovidi: Vintage Russian Couture and Chiffon

“Good clothes open all doors.” A popular belief in Russia and a statement that illustrates that Russian fashion resides in good clothing, good presentation, and good standards. Dovidi’s creations are flowy, colorful, marked with floral prints and big bows, hand-sewn chiffon and silk ties–all emulating the balance between grace and conservative proportions. There is still a subtle hint of fun but restrain in structural rigidness.

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The Girl Next Door: Touch of Vintage

Spring Collection: LookBook 2

The “Girl Next Door” Look is the all-American archetype that represents kindness, modesty, marked with humbleness, and a typical honest woman that surrounds herself in a romantic fantasy. She is every man’s dream that is often taken for granted and overlooked. Her admirability and attractiveness arises from her wholesomeness–she is not an object by any means.

The idea of the “Girl Next Door” was a WW2 propaganda contrivance that idolized a woman adorned by love, separation from her beau, healthy complexion, intelligent, virtuous, and strong willed. This kind of a woman has many layers and has evolved multiplied times to become an ubiquitous modern look. The appeal: she is an unattainable but irresistible.

Evolution Through Time:

  1. Hollywood
    • Pier Angeli: charmer, endearing midnight brown eyes, aspirational, the kind of girl that tugs at James Dean’s heart strings
    • Debbie Reynolds: Innocent, doe-eyed, naive but fierce, quirky, waltzes in the same spotlight as Gene Kelly and Fred Astaire
    • Meg Ryan: Stuck in turmoil but adorable, cute with a purpose, beautiful azure eyes with bright dreams
    • Lily Collins and Emily Watson: Smart, determined, focused, driven, striking a balance with humility, sensuality, and morals
  2. Literature
    • Eliante from Misanthrope: content on not being center of attention, witty, observant, delivers a well thought opinion, represents a sense of moral and social stability, one of the few women that is not hypocritical in behavior or deceitful by nature
    • Jane Fairfax from Emma:Beautiful and accomplished in all ways a woman can be in the Georgian-Regency era, reserved, humble, delicate, firmness of character, a high sense of decorum and morality
    • Daisy Buchanan from The Great Gatsby: beautiful and delicate as her name, but a heavily indecisive and flawed woman. To Gatsby she is sheer perfection: a real man’s dream: charming aura, sophisticated, and paragon of wealth and aristocracy. She is capable of affection but also feeble, shallow, and fickle. She projects “The Girl Next Door” ideals from Gatsby’s perspective but does not match the ideals in reality.
    • Cordelia from King Lear: Kind by nature and forgiving, she reals deeply and truly and projects an angel-like ambience. She is not a superfluous woman nor deceitful.
  3. Fashion
    • Be Nonchalant, Mantra of the 1930s: “A careful carelessness”
      • Achieve appearance of smart indifference through wide brimmed hats, frocks, attention to strips and details; perfect proportions
    • It started and ended with a white dress, 1950s: “All consuming fascination”
      • The brightly colored era with Marilyn’s underwire bra and softly pleated William Travilla dress. Good figures, curvy accentuation, pleasant demeanour & era of the 1st bikini.
    • Simple and unbroken, Big Hair and Dreams of 1980s: “Boasts an unique distinction”
      • Harem pants, halternecks, and introduction of the body-suits. Women sought out bright blouses and tailored made pant suits. Following their dreams in crop tops and leggings.
    • Present-day: Back to basics and touch of vintage
      • My Look Book entails: hint of needle lace made popular by the Venetians, a strappy, minimal frill bralette that originally trended in the 90s, sequined, disco styled skirt with a little bit of the 60s and a lot of the 70s. All brought together by long waves that hit the stage in the 80s. A homage to “The Girl Next Door”-the unrequited dream with vintage nuances.

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She is everything to me
The unrequited dream
A song that no one sings
The unattainable, she’s a myth that I have to believe in

The Boho Queen: Touch of Romance

Spring Collection: LookBook 1

To be Bohemian is to be free. Haute Bohemianism is associated with anti-establishment, frugality & unconventional lifestyle.

This look in particular accentuates a touch of romance with a dash of heart break and a eccentric, free thinking “Litterateur”, aka an artist that sways into the arcane musical and literary pursuits.

My first impression of the Boho concept is actually from an unusual source: Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre.

“Do you think I am an automaton? — a machine without feelings? and can bear to have my morsel of bread snatched from my lips, and my drop of living water dashed from my cup? Do you think, because I am poor, obscure, plain, and little, I am soulless and heartless? You think wrong! — I have as much soul as you — and full as much heart! And if God had gifted me with some beauty and much wealth, I should have made it as hard for you to leave me, as it is now for me to leave you. I am not talking to you now through the medium of custom, conventionalities, nor even of mortal flesh: it is my spirit that addresses your spirit; just as if both had passed through the grave, and we stood at God’s feet, equal — as we are!”

The quote above: When Jane examines the workings of her heart, when she dispels societal boundaries on preconceived notions that ideal women are meek & docile, when she stands as an equal, as a free spirit, as a human being with little means but completely in love with herself and Rochester. This is my definition to be Boho. Set aside the materialistic, be bare and let the light of vulnerability shine through the natural complexion.

It also means to be wanderers and the adventurers in life. To live on the edge of reason and cornerstone of passion. Gelett Burgess narrates:

To take the world as one finds it, the bad with the good, making the best of the present moment—to laugh at Fortune alike whether she be generous or unkind—to spend freely when one has money, and to hope gaily when one has none—to fleet the time carelessly, living for love and art—this is the temper and spirit of the modern Bohemian in his outward and visible aspect. It is a light and graceful philosophy, but it is the Gospel of the Moment, this exoteric phase of the Bohemian religion; and if, in some noble natures, it rises to a bold simplicity and naturalness, it may also lend its butterfly precepts to some very pretty vices and lovable faults.

Finally, it means someone with few attachments to social bonds and indulges in free love–not the misconstrued idea of promiscuity, but as my style look book suggests: straying away from oppression, innocent virtue balanced with personal freedom, touch of sensuality juxtaposed with a broken heart. It is natural grace, making no apologizes, and not letting one’s eyes or head hide away in shame. The Boho Queen style is a godsend to Spring Fashion because it is all about liberation and awakening.

 

To Be Milanese: Pret-a-Porter Posh

Carlo Maria Maggi, a 17th century writer and poet, is famously known for many literary works and manuscripts; one in particular being his Mask of Meneghini. This is a socio-cultural manifesto and allegorical personification of the Milanese people, where they are portrayed as: “humble, frank, honest, full of wisdom & common sense, loud in the adversities, sensitive & generous workers.” Milanese way of life by nature is devoted to sobriety and simplicity. Milanese fashion is akin to and evolved in conjunction with the lifestyle status of its people. In last month’s issue of Elle, Milan was featured as one of the “Around the Fashion World in Four Looks”. See excerpt below:

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Historically, Milan evolved as an epicenter of fashion through the Middle Ages and Renaissance–originally deriving its inspiration from Paris. But instead of the “haute couture” culture of Paris, Milan established itself as Alta Moda “pret-a-porter”, which means high-end “ready to wear”. The elegant and classical sartorial style trends are reminiscent of Italy’s artistic origins and enriched textile past.

For centuries, Milan was known as the city of tailors & seamstresses and the fashion consciousness emphasized the quality of cloths, moderate ornamentation, and a sombre attitude. The  modern “street style” impression is manufactured from the traditional and diverse trend-setting Milanese fashion artisans.

Below: Top 12 Milano Street Styles for MFW Spring 2016:

 

When I chose to re-create this in honor of Milan Fashion Week, my aim was to stick to the basics. High quality fabric, vintage hand bag, minimal accessories, and a simple soft pick. Something that mixes well with “street style”, but also has a “jolt of intrigue”. It’s everything that isn’t ostentatious and pretentious because the Milanese fashion identity is rooted in a strong sense of proportion and color, an unmessy chic palette, and embossed with the small element of unexpected boudoir dressing.

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Shivani Pithadi Photography

The Grace of a Woman

“After a while you learn
The subtle difference between
Holding a hand and chaining a soul
And you learn that love doesn’t mean leaning
And company doesn’t always mean security.

And you begin to learn
That kisses aren’t contracts
And presents aren’t promises
And you begin to accept your defeats
With your head up and your eyes ahead
With the grace of woman, not the grief of a child

And you learn
To build all your roads on today
Because tomorrow’s ground is
Too uncertain for plans
And futures have a way 
Of falling down in mid flight

After a while you learn
That even sunshine burns if you get too much
So you plant your own garden
And decorate your own soul
Instead of waiting for someone to bring you flowers

And you learn 
That you really can endure
That you are really strong 
And you really do have worth 
and you learn and you learn
With every goodbye, you learn”

Veronica A. Shoffstall

Every now and then, my mind ponders back to this poem. It taught me that there are many kinds of love in this world; however, not the same kind twice. As we pass through life, we meet with pain and loss. People come and they go; our hearts clinging onto possibilities that are more fantasy than reality. All of this is transcended by a truth: we love and hold on the longest  when there is no hope at all.

The child-like innocence of a young girl is transformed into the grace of a woman when she transitions from a fool who loves all to a wise soul that loves herself first. She recognizes her self-worth to be independent of faux liaisons. Her passions and prerogatives change as she matures–head held up high and eyes searching the sky for new dreams. When she sees her flaws, she won’t let that moor her down; but it will propel her corybantic impulses and buoyancy of nature. She thinks and plans for herself, learns that wounded she may be but not feeble or brittle; and there is so much grace and dignity in saying goodbye to those have used her, traduced her, and regarded her with so little respect.

As I flourish with experience and wisdom, as well as from follies, I see that the grace of a woman is the paramount essence of her style and sensibility. There are many ways to lead your life, but only the rarest, purest, and bravest woman will do so with a silent strength and calm augustness.

 

Cover Image: Alexandria Odekrik Photography

 

 

My Mother’s Style Book: Portraits of Real Women

“A strong woman understands that the gifts such as logic, decisiveness, and strength are just as feminine as intuition and emotional connection. She values and uses all of her gifts.”

You know those little luxuries that seem so mundane that we tend to overlook their significance. For instance, going to work in your own car, being able to obtain a college education, trying out for the basketball team, or going on a date without a male chaperon. These are all the things my mother never had or had to struggle for and her mother could scarcely fathom of these ideas. However, she was entirely determined that I shall have all that she could not and then some. It is the sacrifices of those women that are closest to us that tend to slip our minds yet these very actions have the most profound affects on our lives–probably if altered could have changed the entire course of our lives in an adverse manner. So today, on International Women’s Day I chose to write about the woman whose dreams and aspirations took a backseat so that mine could have center stage: My mother.

“Women have always been the strong ones of the world. The men are always seeking from women a little pillow to put their heads down on. They are always longing for the mother who held them as infants.”

Historically, women have always faced the downside of advantage and society’s austerity and authoritarianism created grave injustices and inequalities. Throughout centuries, the intellectual and rebellious have been persecuted, while women’s role in society have usually been confined to the domestic domain. My grandmother was betrothed to my grandfather by the tender age of 11,married at 14, and had her first child at 16. However, she has always been the pillar of strength and courage–the backbone of the family. Her style has always been benevolence to less fortunate and sternness to the avarice. When I ask her where she gets her toughness, she always says, “From within.” The thing with women is that, we are afraid and sometimes terrified, but it doesn’t stop us. It’s as if we are born with it intrinsically–allowing us to muster the courage to raise our voices in times of disparity and powerlessness. For every male chauvinist and misogynist that said women couldn’t, there was an Alice Paul, a Lucy Burns, a Joan of Arc, an Eleanor Roosevelt, a Gloria Steinem, an Amelia Earhart, and so forth proving that women can. From the Suffragettes to the earliest Feminists, women have always displayed a strength of character in the worst of times and in the age of foolishness.

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“We need women at all levels, including the top, to change the dynamic, reshape the conversation, to make sure women’s voices are heard and heeded, not overlooked and ignored.”

Yet at times, it feels that growth for women is very stagnant. The glass ceiling is still prevalent, people are scared to be identified as feminists, and social media tends to create abnormal and unattainable beauty and image ideals that instill insecurity and crack the purity of innocence and self-respect. I look at my mother and see a woman who has worked every single day of her life and receives the best performance reviews among her colleagues yet is paid $4 less than the men in her department. This same woman campaigned for the position of the president of the student council at her university in India and won–twice. Not only beating out all of her male competition, but by a fairly large margin too; however, she was overlooked for a supervisor promotion because they felt she might be “too soft” and not a true leader. We take aside one day to celebrate and acknowledge women, but then the rest of the year the issues sustain ignorance. Everyone always says, you have to be patient, women have to be patience. But when you look back to the beginning of time–women are the only ones that have always been patience. So when I still see inequality, lack of proper education for girls, women locked into predetermined societal roles, and an absence of choice, I ask why? Why do women need to be patient for basic human rights?

“A woman is like a tea bag–you never know how strong she is until she gets into hot water.

I came across an album of my mother’s photographs that genuinely deserve to be in an issue of Harper’s Bazaar or Vintage Vogue. When I first came across these years ago, I was flabbergasted because I thought she had a secret life–like a fashionista or a model.

She’s a rebel. Cut her hair short when the norm considered long, black hair a standard beauty ideal. She loved high waist trousers, assortment of colors, fitted blouses, and tiny belts. Yet she always projected her Indian identity with modern silk and chiffon saris or salwars. Her style book is her own. She did not walk with the trend, but had her own trend. This was probably some time between 20-30 years ago, she was the wee age of 22 or 23 yet definitely more confident than I am now at times. In the picture where she has henna on her hands, that is her wedding day and she woke up and wore trousers and plaid because that’s who she is. She pushes the envelope and stays true to herself. How does she do? Where does she get it from?

Her confidence stems from a difficult childhood and maturing before her time. Some will say that the true strength of a woman is best tested in arduous times. It’s true. She grow up without a mother and her father passed away when she was 16, and lived in an orthodox society that was struggling to adapt to the liberal views of the 80s generation. Her dreams were many times considered too beyond her means and she learned to let go. When I ask her if she has any regrets, she always says no because she always found happiness in whatever she received and did not ponder on the things she couldn’t have. Her mantra: “Keep it simple. Minimalistic is the best route. The more complex and complicated you make your life, the more you have to untangle. True happiness is finding contentment with the small surprises life throws at you. But you must learn to appreciate the small things before life can give you something grand.”

“You don’t have to be pretty. You don’t owe prettiness to anyone. Not to your boyfriend/spouse/partner, not to your co-workers, especially not to random men on the street. You don’t owe it to civilization. Prettiness is not a rent you pay for occupying a space marked ‘female’.” 

She’s my trailblazer. Our mothers are. Whatever confidence we have, it comes from them.

My mother always told me when I was young that my role in life was never to be JUST someone’s wife or someone’s mother or this or that. It was to be whoever I wanted, when I wanted. Granted, as an Indian girl in my mid-20s I am perfectly aware and accustomed to societal pressures to marriage–but I have been raised to know that my identity can be career-driven or home-drive or both. But essentially it is my choice. This is what are mothers instill in us. The ability to be your own kind of  woman, make rational choices, mostly be selfless, but at times to be selfish.

I know that there are many things my mother could have probably done if she didn’t have children. But that was her choice. She wanted her first born to be a daughter and she promised herself that her daughter would never have to relinquish her dreams or desires that way she had to. She wanted me to choose the life I live, the partner I share it with, and build my very own legacy in the world. All the things that I have today is because somewhere down the line, she held some of her dreams back. And my mother received the very little that she did because her mother held some of her wishes back. Every predecessor generation has sacrificed so much so that today we can appreciate the comforts and conveniences they could not.

In essence, always in vogue: mothers. Always pure, always dreamers, always fluffing our aura and setting us up to succeed. Call them. Not just today, but every day. Hold them because now they are old and tired and deserve a gentle remainder that they matter. Be patience when they ask for help with technology or basically anything for she was the one that taught you how to walk and stayed up long, late nights when you had fevers and chills. And be very kind because you’ll always be her baby.

Honor the women in your life and make an effort to learn about their sacrifices. Also, every woman has her own fashion diaries. Find the ones that belong to your mother and garner a sense of her youthful style and personality.

PS: Please share anything interesting you find. I’m always interested in portraits of real women and their inspirational life stories. Happy Women’s Day.

 

 

 

TreStique: Beauty Meets Simple

Beauty should be simple, after all the ultimate sophistication comes from simplicity. Recently, I came across a highly underrated brand of lip crayons that radiates a vibrant, bolder look. At one end is a matte lip crayon and at the other a shiny lip balm infused with cocoa butter, monhoi tahiti butter, peach oil and olive fruit oil. Practically, it’s confident colors with a smooth lip balm that softens, protects and regenerates lips. (A nice selection for the frosty and windy Chicago winters.)

Below are my 4 favorite tones that work well in different scenarios:

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  1. Barcelona Bright Berry: It’s pink, which means it’s fun. Nice for a day out with girls or a beach visit. Instant mood brightener that sets you in with “vacay vibes”.
  2. Florence Fig: Nude Brown that can be used for a more exotic, tan look or something simple for the minimalists.
  3. Chile Red: Sultry and sizzling. Perfect for a hot date, but also classy enough for the Opera.
  4. Belize Bordeaux: My office pick. Plum meets burgundy meets pink. All the shades that go well with whites, blacks, blues, and grays.

Simple yet bold. Everything that a woman is and should be. Positively, a handbag necessity.

Featured: Chile Red (Told ye, sultry for a date. And classy for the Opera.)

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Alexandria Odekirk Photography

Leonardo DiCaprio: The Renaissance Man

While staring at a DaVinci painting amidst a Florence museum, young Irmelin Indenbirken felt a gentle kick in her stomach and decided to name her unborn child, Leonardo. Like the the famous Italian polymath, Leonardo DiCaprio is very much this era’s “Renaissance Man”. Great thinkers of the 17th century often referred to Leonardo DaVinci with this term of endearment–one that is “unquenchable curiosity” and “feverishly inventive imagination”. It is a person that embodies expertise and profound knowledge in a plethora of spheres: intellectual, artistic, social, and physical.

Even if I set aside by 18 years of love and bias, the manner in which this man has carried his life, his career, and his relationships explicate the compassion and very humanistic perspective he upholds in all of his endeavors.

An Artist.

Probably the only thing I knew with complete clarity was that I wanted to be an actor. But there was a lot of rejection early on, and so it never felt like, Hey, I’ve got something here. There was always an element of me that needed to prove something to myself. It’s something I don’t want to get rid of, because it’s what drives me. I’m never settled and I’m never satisfied.”

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Born in Hollywood, it seems Leo was always destined for the actor’s stage. He started his career with commercials and television shows that eventually lead his breakthrough performance in “This Boy’s Life”, where he was personally chosen by Robert DeNiro out of 400 young men. Since then, he has become one of the finest and most versatile actors, who has a range that goes from Titantic to The Aviator, The Wolf of Wall Street to Revolutionary Road, Catch Me If You Can to The Departed, and Inception to The Revenant. He has the ability to adapt accents and fluctuate vocal modulations, as seen in Django Unchained. While also adding subtle nuances and vulnerability to real characters. His undying passion for cinema and thirst for artistic expression has garnered him six Academy Award nominations (1 win) and eleven Golden Globes (winning 3). In essence, there can not be such a thing as a bad Leonardo DiCaprio movie. (However, I’ve permanently eradicated The Beach from my memory.)

A Humanitarian.

“You work on these movies and you’re creating fantasy all the time. When you come back to the real world, you realize the problems that are out there and if you can give any kind of help or insight on these issues, it’s something that fulfills you, that’s all. It fulfills you, and it’s a great feeling to know you are possibly contributing some small element to helping the world be a better place.”

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Growing up on the downside of advantage, he recognizes the importance to branch outside of his craft and use his fame, popularity, and money towards philanthropic efforts. His foundation has granted nearly 430,000 people in Tanzania, Mozambique, Sierre Leone and Darfur access to clean water. In addition to this, while filming for Blood Diamond, he became involved with SOS Children’s Villages–an organization that cares for children of deceased or missing parents and ensures access to education, healthcare, and psycho-social support. He has also lent his support and donations to members of the LGBT community and protecting indigenous societies.

A Feminist.

“Women have been the most persecuted people throughout all of recorded history, more than any race or religion.”

A man that has constantly considered his mother “a walking miracle” because she taught him the value of life–he understands the trials of women in all arenas and walks of life. Plus, he does not chide away from the F-word.

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An Environmentalist.

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“The main focus is to do something that will change the world. I couldn’t have gone to Belize and built on an island and done something like this, if it weren’t for the idea that it could be groundbreaking in the environmental movement.”

He has used his influence over the years to join scientists and politicians resolve the imminent threat to the Earth’s environment, ecosystems, and species. Joining forces with Al Gore and the Wildlife Conservation Society to educate the ignorant and mobilize the enthusiasts. Only last year, Leo purchased an island off the coast of Belize, Blackadore Caye–which has suffered from overfishing, an eroding coastline and the deforestation of its mangrove trees. Leo plans to assemble a “Restorative” resort that promotes sustainability, eco-friendliness, conservation, and eco-tourism that negates negative impacts on the landscape and natural resources.

A Social Thinker.

“To believe in love, to be ready to give up anything for it, to be willing to risk your life for it, is the ultimate tragedy.”

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I realize all of these characteristics do not perfectly align with the notion of a true Renaissance Man. Sure, he may have never graduated from High School and only completed his GED. Also, he might not be an expertise in every field. However, he excels at cinema, art, creative expression, and imaginative escape. Furthermore, he is an allegorical representation of the term “Renaissance Man”; however, with a slight twist. Holding true to the ideas of the man his name originated from, he has constructed a life that is not solely rooted in his career. But a life that serves others–a life that has a purpose and existence outside of his own identity. His knowledge is not limited to one subject, but he actively desires to learn more about the sciences and the world. Leo is not merely one thing. He is the accumulation of all that is mentioned above and so much more. This is why he is MY Renaissance Man and so utterly successful in everything he sets his mind to.

I end with this idea that Leonardo DaVinci once shared, “It had long since come to my attention that people of accomplishment rarely sat back and let things happen to them. They went out and happened to things.” As DiCaprio did.